Unspoken rules about the perfect suit 1.0

“A well tailored suit is to a woman, what lingerie is to a man.”  

“My name is Bond, James Bond.” Oh, how often have you fantasized being able to walk, talk, look and woo as effortlessly as The Bond does. You have perhaps at some point in your life worn that cumbersome suit, stood in front of the mirror and cried (on the inside of course), that you look nothing as suave as James Bond.

Well, no, it is not you; it is the suit you choose. Breakup with it, call if off, let the ill-fitting suit down, gently. Because in the next two-blog posts, I am going to tell you things about wearing a suit, that no one would. Often people ask me, which color suit should they pick. And my standard responses to them are, it is not the color it is the fit that makes or breaks your suit.

So here goes:

  1. The length of your jacket, of course you don’t want one that hangs around you like a trench coat, neither do you want to look like you are wearing a blazer from your graduation ceremony. Fret not, I will tell you that one of the easiest ways of getting the length right is to ensure that your jacket bottom doesn’t exceed the your knuckles, when you are standing with your hands on your sides.

style guide for Men-jacket length

  1. The sleeve length of your jacket should end at your wrist. And up to half an inch sleeve of your shirt can play peek-a-boo through your jacket sleeve.

style guide for Men-jacket sleeve

  1. Shoulder pads are so 1970s, and basic. You don’t need shoulder pads to give the broad shouldered illusion; a well-fitted jacket will do that for you. So say “No” to shoulder pads, unless you are playing rugby.

style guide for Men-shoulder

  1. Now how do you identify that your jacket is neither too tight, nor too loose. Just the right fit. Well, the trick is to get a fist worth of room between you and your jacket.

style guide for Men-buttoning up

5. We love ties don’t we; they are suave, stylish and so…so proper. So when can you go wrong with a tie? When you decide to wear a tie that is broader than the lapel of your jacket. So limit the width of your tie to either narrower or as broad as your jacket lapel.

DrPocketSq-lapel pin

  1. The collar of the shirt needs to be visible above the collar of the jacket. Remember you shirt likes a bit of peek-a-boo, and at the same time likes to sit snugly with the collar of your jacket.

style guide for Men-collar

  1. The tip of your tie needs to fall just shy of the belt. We don’t want the tie doing a peek-a-boo down below your jacket now, do we?

suit essentials - tie length

  1. Always remember to unbutton the last button of your jacket or all buttons while standing or walking, also don’t forget to unbutton your jacket when you sit.

jacket one button on cropped

  1. If you choose to wear a belt, match it with your shoes and don’t choose a thick one, especially those with loud belt buckles. Bond never did.

Keep your eye on this space for more unspoken rules for wearing that perfect suit…


Illustration Source: http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/visual-suit-fit-guide/